Why Steve McQueen was The King of Cool

It is 44 years since Steve McQueen died, but his influence on menswear still exerts a pull. His signature style incorporated desert boots, chinos, T-shirts and fold-up Persol 714 sunglasses, astride a Triumph motorbike. It was most famously showcased in 1963 in The Great Escape where his khakis, sweatshirt and A-2 flying jacket introduced moviegoers to a clean-cut, all-American look that was hard to find this side of the Atlantic. The film even had a Triumph disguised as a German army motorbike, which starred in McQueen’s epic fence-jumping scene.

Breaking out of his cowboy, soldier and sailor roles, the actor’s don’t-mess-with-me attitude transferred to the realm of high finance and art in the 1968 heist movie The Thomas Crown Affair — and with it came a new look. His character, Thomas Crown, was a Boston millionaire who liked Patek Philippe watches, Rolls-Royces and strong suits. The film’s costume budget was reportedly more than $500,000.

McQueen’s wardrobe for the film included hand-tailored three-piece suits made by Doug Hayward of Mount Street, London — tailor to Michael Caine, Terence Stamp and Roger Moore. Hayward specialised in a fitted yet relaxed silhouette. Two-button jackets featured lapels that were much slimmer than the late-Sixties norm, while waistcoats were finished with a straight hem, rather than pointed (which is why the bottom button can be fastened without cries of dismay from purists).

Among the most striking suits was a grey checked three-piece over a light blue shirt, the cuffs fastened with chunky mother of pearl cufflinks and a royal blue silk tie knotted with a dimpled half Windsor, all offset by a light grey pocket square. It was a world away from the sweat-stained stetsons of The Magnificent Seven.McQueen went on to look sharp in other movies, notably in the tweed jacket and blue rollneck he wore during Bullitt’s heart-stopping car chase. Frank Bullitt would also give Michael Caine’s Harry Palmer a run for his money in any best light raincoat competition. McQueen even made racing overalls look chic in Le Mans, teamed with a square Tag Heuer Monaco watch. 

Today you can replicate McQueen’s styles of desert rancher/motorcyclist and sartorial man about town as much of what he wore is still available, either in its original form, such as the Tag Heuer Monaco watch and fold-up Persol sunglasses, or in contemporary interpretations. Just team with a healthy dose of attitude.